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Patricia Grogan

The Fabric Of My Life

In this edition, we speak with founder of The Cut Patricia Grogan. From pattern development to garment construction, Patricia spent three years learning and honing her craft under the watchful eye of a highly experienced Savile Row tailor.

After graduating with a tailoring degree, she realised there was a gap in the local market for a personal appointment-only, made-to-measure service, providing a high level of expertise in tailoring with a keen eye for fashion and style. So, The Cut was born, bringing a little part of Savile Row to a beautiful Georgian building in Belfast.

In this edition, we speak with founder of The Cut Patricia Grogan. From pattern development to garment construction, Patricia spent three years learning and honing her craft under the watchful eye of a highly experienced Savile Row tailor.

After graduating with a tailoring degree, she realised there was a gap in the local market for a personal appointment-only, made-to-measure service, providing a high level of expertise in tailoring with a keen eye for fashion and style. So, The Cut was born, bringing a little part of Savile Row to a beautiful Georgian building in Belfast.

How did you get into tailoring and fashion?

When I was growing up, my mum bought every edition of Vogue magazine. I would pour over the pages and create my own mini outfits. She also bought me my first sewing machine and encouraged me to develop my skills.

What’s the best career advice you’ve ever been given?

Never be afraid to admit that you don't know something.

The Irish female founder you most admire is…

There's co-founder and CEO of Wildfang, Emma Mcilroy. She identified a niche market creating a fantastic inclusive brand for women and the people of the LGBTQIA community, allowing people to cross the gender clothing divide.

There’s also founder and president of Space NK, Nicky Kinnaird MBE – I've never actually met her, but I know her mum! I admire Nicky for her staying power in what must be a very competitive market. To be able to build a worldwide brand and sustain it over 30 years is no mean feat.

Talk us through a typical day in your life and what you’re wearing...

I’m up at 7am, have a decaf coffee, and check my emails. I’m in my showroom at 9am preparing to meet my clients – new and old – talking all things tailoring. I come into work suited and booted – I always wear a three-piece suit or some sort of tailoring because that’s what I do.

I’m normally back-to-back with customers. My business is made to measure but sometimes I’ll do really bespoke pieces, so I’ll spend some of my time pattern cutting and doing things like that for customers. Lunch is normally a protein pot on the go, then I spend a few hours catching up on emails, checking orders and delivery dates, etc.

I finish up at 6pm, then it’s a quick change into some gym gear before I head off to the gym for a quick PT session. I love the Adidas Y-3 collection, then I’ll put on a jacket over the top, and that’s my look! I’ll wear my Stella McCartney trainers sometimes. But I always wear black when training! Then, it’s home to relax.

Normally, I will get home and change out of my suit into either some lovely cashmere jogging bottoms that I have had forever or a pair of Les Girls Les Boys bottoms that I own in various colours. As for my rituals, I have used Estée Lauder products for years. I have sensitive skin and they just seem to work. I especially love their moisturiser and night time serum. My signature scent is YSL Black Opium. It took me to my 40s before I actually settled on a perfume. Better late than never!

What’s your personal style signifier?

I call my look kind of street-tailor. Wearing a heel or a brogue with a suit takes it into a different realm in my opinion. I like to keep my look a bit fresher. One of my own suits is a must but always with a cool pair of trainers.

I have an eclectic trainer collection. From Alexander McQueen, Off-White and Adidas through to vintage-styles, if I like them and they work with a suit then that’s it. I do really like a clean white trainer with a suit though. Or white with a flash of something to add interest.

Woman In Brown Dress

What are you investing in this autumn winter?

My next investment will be a three-piece suit in a beautiful light grey wool cashmere cloth that has recently arrived from one of my suppliers – I cannot resist.

I’m ordering myself three winter suits. I’ll mix it up a bit – I'll do a wider leg, a shorter jacket, or maybe a dress. I also recently ordered myself a beautiful long black double-breasted coat – it's totally fab. Outerwear is definitely an area to invest in and you have to shop early in the season to get the best pick.

At the moment, I have a thing for going out pyjamas! They’re very elegant and you can dress them up with a pair of heels or down with trainers.

Instead of randomly building a wardrobe, it’s about selecting key pieces that work well together. I know what suits me; I know what I like, and I'll pull from different places. I look for items that are well made that will have longevity.

How have you brought the Savile Row service to Belfast?

I am the only person that does women’s tailoring here. It’s a small but growing market in Ireland. Initially, I just started off with ladieswear, but now I also do menswear.

I would like to think I keep the Saville Row ethos alive in Belfast by providing my customers with first-rate service, a wealth of knowledge, and hopefully a very enjoyable experience.

It’s a private space. Your tailor is like your hairdresser, you build a relationship with them. It can be an intimate thing in a way. Some people have quirks about their bodies that they’re not comfortable with. So, I don’t do off-the-shelf – I’m purely made to measure and bespoke tailoring – and it’s by appointment only. It’s key to give someone a special experience.

What is your favourite piece you’ve ever made?

When a customer leaves my store delighted with how they feel and look, that is always my favourite thing. But my favourite piece is probably a green velvet tuxedo commissioned by the Ulster Museum for their permanent collection.

A Building

What accessories are a must with tailoring?

A beautiful tie is a must with a great suit. I have mine handmade in Italy for my showroom and I never buy two the same. Women might go for a softer, thin scarf that can work as a tie but also as a bow. Or they can mix it up and put it under their jacket to bring a bit of colour. It depends on what the suit is for.

It’s important to invest in good footwear, a good pair of trainers or good pair of heels is essential to finish the look.

Sometimes, less is more, as well. I called my company The Cut because it’s all about the cut of the suit. It’s the nice, little subtle details, the fit, and how the person feels when they are wearing it.

Which local celebrities have come through the doors of The Cut? And who would you most like to dress?

I am very low-key about who I work with as my customers' privacy is very important. However, it is no secret that I made Robert Eggers’s tuxedo for the Oscars when he was nominated for his film The Lighthouse.

I would like to dress LP. She’s an American singer. She was a backing singer for years and has recently blown up. Her music is fantastic, she’s a gay woman, she's very cool, and all she wears is suiting. She just has a very edgy look.

The Restory

What are your top tips on creating a sustainable wardrobe?

Tailoring! If you have quality pieces that are a little bit tired or no longer fit perfectly then tailoring is the best way to revive them. I always encourage my clients to bring things to me and I love to see the old pieces and breathe new life into them. It’s something I think we should all be doing more of. There are some great examples out there, like Brown Thomas’ The Restory service.

I always advise my customers to consider what they already own and to build a capsule wardrobe around those pieces. Repair and restore the things that you love.

Does sustainability influence your shopping habits?

Yes, I have never been into disposable fashion. My motto is: buy well and buy once. The older I have become, the more I believe in making really considered choices. To invest in something I have to really want it! I don’t impulse buy. That way I think you appreciate your things more – like a good pair or sunglasses or a good handbag. Once you’ve had a good handbag you can’t go back!

It’s worth saving for it or waiting for the sale or shopping pre-loved to get something you really love and I really think it can be easier – when you have less – to put outfits together. It’s all about a curated capsule wardrobe full of pieces you love that all work together and fit like a glove- simple!

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