THE A TO Z OF SKINCARE

A - ALPHA HYDROXY ACID

Usually known in their abbreviated form, AHAs are acids - usually fruit (including citric acid), sugar cane (glycolic) or sour milk (lactic) - and are among the most effective ways to rid the complexion of dead, dulling cells, revealing brighter, healthier looking skin beneath. The Ordinary makes several good AHA products (as well as BHAs, which are salicylic acid and best for enlarged pores and spotty skin), but my own favourites is Clarins’ Gentle Exfoliator Brightening Toner, which suits almost any skin type, even sensitive or dry. Use always after cleansing and before serum.

B - BUTYLENE GLYCOL

This once unfairly-maligned paraffin derivative is enjoying a huge comeback, thanks to the trend for very lightweight gel-creams and skin jellies. Its inclusion makes for thinner, lighter moisturisers, and improves their penetrability, allowing active ingredients to better sink into the skin. It is used particularly effectively in Clinique’s excellent Dramatically Different Jelly - soup up yours with one of the new Clinique ID cartridge concentrates (the orange one, for fatigued skin, is my favourite).

C - VITAMIN C

The active ingredient from which every last one of us can benefit. Vitamin C is an anti-oxidant, skin brightener, hyperpigmentation treatment and may also encourage skin to produce collagen. I use a vitamin C serum every morning, without fail, but if you’re a wash and go kind of woman, you may love Clinique’s Fresh Pressed Renewing Powder Cleanser, which delivers instant, vibrant glow, in a splash.

D - DHA

The commonly abbreviated form of Dihydroxyacetone, the active, usually natural, ingredient in gradual tanning products that was discovered accidentally when it spilled on a scientist’s skin and turned it brown! DHA is what allows Charlotte Tilbury’s Overnight Bronze & Glow Mask to be smoothed over clean skin before bed, then left to create a golden, sunkissed glow by morning. The inclusion of lactic acid and glycerin adds smoothness and softness as it tans.

E - ERYTHRITOL

Sounds scary, works wonders. Erythritol is simply a sugar alcohol, very much like glycerin, and is a similarly effective humectant. This means it binds water to the surface of the skin, giving it a plumper, more moist appearance and greater comfort. It’s a perfect addition to Dr Jart+’s Ceramidin Serum, a wonderfully moisturising serum for even the driest of complexions (and a brilliant winter standby for everyone).

G - GLYCERIN

An oldie but a goodie. I am convinced that this traditional but wonderfully effective and gentle ingredient is next in line for a comeback. Glycerin, a natural humectant for all skin types (including the very sensitive) can be relied on to moisturise, soften and plump any complexion, including in Sisley’s legendary Black Rose Cream Mask, a beautiful pre makeup mask for the most special occasions.

H - HYALURONIC ACID

Where to begin? Hyaluronic Acid may be modern beauty’s most loved ingredient - and with good reason. Able to hold a thousand times its own weight in water, HA helps skin hold on to hydration, giving it greater comfort and a plumper, perkier and healthier look. The vast majority of moisturisers now rightly contain it, but my insider secret weapon is the hyaluronic-rich Chanel’s Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence. Smooth it over dehydrated, more mature skins, or even alone on the very oily or young. Beautiful.

I - IDEBENONE

Antioxidants - ingredients that help protect skin from environmental damage (the cause of many of its visible signs of ageing) play an extremely important role in modern skincare, across all brands. But many cosmetic dermatologists consider this synthetic antioxidant, idebenone, to be the gold standard. It’s most famously utilised in Elizabeth Arden’s Prevage, a beautifully textured, wholly ungreasy serum, that instantly enlivens a dull complexion and comes in the perfect packaging - an airless, lightless, pump dispenser.

K - KAOLIN

Love a clay mask? The chances are, it contains kaolin. This natural mineral makes a good, rinsable, absorbent base for active ingredients, and excels at drawing oil and grease from the skin. It’s not harsh, meaning oily and combination types should be left with soft, matte, calm skin, but dry types will probably want to skip it. Elizabeth Arden Superstart Probiotic Cleanser Whip to Clay is a lovely introduction to the benefits of kaolin.

M - MORINGA

What is extremely dense in nutrients, contains amino acids, essential omega 3 fatty acids, more calcium than milk, more vitamin C than oranges, more vitamin A than carrots, and other goodies like potassium and protein? The moringa plant - which is why brands like Estée Lauder and Clarins have spent so much time studying its skin-saving, anti-ageing capabilities. Try it in Estée Lauder’s glorious Revitalizing Supreme line.

O - OCTOCRYLENE & OCTINOXATE

Two boring words with one highly necessary job - protecting skin from UV rays (think A for Ageing and B for Burning). Both are chemical sunscreens, making them ideal for use in lighter formulation skincare and makeup. Octocrylene makes an appearance in Estée Lauder’s now iconic Daywear Advanced Antioxidant Cream, a delicious, cooling cucumber scented day cream. Meanwhile Octinoxate provides the unusually high (for makeup) UV filter in Laura Mercier’s noticeably glow-giving Illuminating Tinted Moisturiser SPF20 - among my all time favourite products.

R - RETINOL

Retinol remains the last word in the treatment of wrinkles by skincare, but the Vitamin A-derivative is proven also to be effective on loss of firmness, uneven tone and acne. There are now retinols for every budget, but Clinique offers the smartest solution. Fresh Pressed Clinical Daily + Overnight Boosters with Pure Vitamins C + A (Retinol) Duo contains fresh dosing applicators of retinol for nighttime and that other anti-ageing powerhouse, vitamin C, for day. Just squeeze into your regular moisturisers after cleansing. Terrific.

S - SQUALANE

Think you hate oil? You need this, one of the all-time greatest skincare ingredients. Squalane is a substance usually derived from olives or sugarcane and is light and ungreasy while adding moisture, suppleness and glow without causing spots on problem and congested skin. Try it in Chanel’s Sublimage La Creme, or add a few drops of The Ordinary’s Squalane to your regular night cream.

T - TITANIUM DIOXIDE

Does suncare cause your skin to become irritated, itchy or sore? While chemical sunscreens suit the vast majority of us just fine, some people need a physical sunscreen instead. These use natural minerals - usually titanium dioxide - to deflect UV rays, and can be used safely on everyone. Bare Minerals lead the way in mineral cosmetics and so naturally, they’ve used titanium dioxide in their Prep Step SPF50, a thin, silky, high protection facial lotion.

V - VITAMIN E

This antioxidant is among the older known skincare ingredients, but remains excellent at soothing and replenishing the skin, as well as protecting it against pollution. Jo Malone’s rich, luxurious Vitamin E gel blends the ingredient with rich oils to moisturise.

W - WHEY PROTEIN

Rich, gentle, skin softening goodness comes from this milk-derived protein. It’s a perfect choice for sensitive types, pregnant women or those recovering from ill-health, and can be used safely on both body and face. Bobbi Brown’s Skin Nourish Mask gives the latter a treat.

X - XANTHAN GUM

Skincare ingredients needn’t be active to be indispensable. Xanthan gum is a natural, harmless ingredient extracted from soy, corn, wheat and dairy, that gives many a luxury cream its beautiful, silky texture. Dior's Brightening Refining Moist Cloud Crème is a rich, velvety example, and great on oily and combination skin.

Z - ZINC

Z is for Zinc, of course. Rosacea and blemish-prone types should never be without it. Zinc (also a useful physical sunscreen) has been found to have an anti-inflammatory action on flared up skin. It’s paired with fellow blemish troubleshooter Niacinamide in The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, which is best applied at night, minus any vitamin C serum - they don’t play nicely together.