AGENT OF CHANGE

Known for its unapologetically sexy and somewhat subversive approach, Agent Provocateur has been responsible for something of a lingerie revolution. Founded in 1994 by Vivienne Westwood's son, Joe Corre, the brand continues to push boundaries, selling daring, high-end underwear and redefining its category.

Now under the creative direction of Sarah Shotton (who worked her way from an Agent Provocateur shop assistant in 1999 to Creative Director in 2010), her goal has been to transform an essential everyday item into something that is special – and of course, sexy too. The brand continues to evolve, pairing avant-garde, playful and often theatrical designs with luxurious fabrics, all with the aim to encourage the women who wear its designs to feel both confident and creative.

Here, Shotton sits down with Brown Thomas to discuss femininity, confidence and why it’s time to fall back in love with our lingerie drawers.

First, let’s get to know a bit about you and Agent Provocateur…

How would you describe Agent Provocateur?

“A fashion-forward luxury lingerie brand with a kinky edge and attitude. It’s a place to explore individualism and emphasize femininity.”

You’ve worked with the brand for a long time, how has the lingerie industry changed since you joined?

“I joined the brand in 1999 and Agent Provocateur was the first fashion lingerie brand that sexually liberated women by putting the woman in control and putting the fun into lingerie. At the time as a woman, you were wearing lingerie maybe for a partner or to get a partner! Whereas now, we wear lingerie for us and nobody else. It’s the most important thing you put on every day as it supports you, helps your posture, and your clothes fit better over the top of a good fitting bra.”

What does femininity mean to you?

“It’s about embracing who you are and not being afraid to show it, whether that’s a softer more vulnerable side or wanting to conquer the world. You can be anything you want to be.”

Who is your customer?

“Everyone is welcome at Agent Provocateur. This has always been our policy and I think that is why we have such an array of great customers - it’s a fun place to go!”

Let’s take a look back at your epic career...

Favourite piece you’ve ever designed?

“There are so many to choose from as normally I design lingerie I want to wear! An all-time favourite and a real turning point for Agent Provocateur was Cendrillon which I designed in 2006. It was using a wet look embroidery and had an open cup bra and knicker with a deep suspender, it had a masculine-feminine edge and at the time there was nothing like it on the market. It was the beginning of me understanding what the customer really wanted from us and pushing the brand forward design-wise and technically.”

You’ve done some incredible campaigns over the years, what was your favourite and why?

“‘Play to Win’ is my all-time favourite campaign. I shot it with Charlotte Wales. We celebrated female athletes, showing their magnificence and the strength of the body and how sensual and powerful that is. It featured Sasha DiGiulian, Queen Harrison, Alysha Newman and Georgia Mae Fenton. It’s very Agent Provocateur with lots of humour, strength, and badass women in it!”

What role does female strength play in your creative work?

“All my work starts with female strength whether that is designing the lingerie or working on the campaigns, and it really is very important for the brand and myself. I have always been about the strength of women and have surrounded myself and been inspired by strong female characters whether in films or in day-to-day life. They inspire me to get the attitude of the collection.”

Over your years as Creative Director of Agent Provocateur, your designs have been worn by a lot of spectacular women. Any personal highlights?

“We have a lot of spectacular women wearing Agent Provocateur which I still get excited about. It’s very magical seeing something that has been drawn on a piece of paper come to life and be worn by women you admire. I think 2003 when J-Lo wore a bikini I had designed on the front of American Esquire was a real highlight. The image went global. Or, when Beyoncé announced her pregnancy wearing our Lorna bra, that was also a personal highlight…and the crystal thong I designed for her for British Vogue - but there really are so many that I think wow!”

Now for some future-gazing...

What trends are you most excited about sharing in 2022?

“Bright fun sexy lingerie. During the pandemic and over the last couple of years, I noticed that a lot of our customers were celebrating their bodies and posting pictures of on social media wearing Agent Provocateur. It wasn’t everyday lingerie they were posting, it was bright, sassy, frilly lingerie sets. It was a way of escaping the lockdown. For 2022, glamour, fantasy and kink is back.”

What inspired your designs for the new season collection?

“The mood board for SS2022 is inspired by the early noughties. I was reminiscing when I first started at Agent Provocateur, ‘Crazy in Love’ by Beyoncé was playing and we were bringing sexy back! There is a lot of zebra print, hot pinks, cornflower blues and bright yellows. It's all about colour, dressing up and having fun!”

Favourite pieces from the ss22 collection?

“For Valentine’s Day, I love Cupid with her playful embroidered hearts or Donnie in white with hot pink cherries. Classic Molly in red / black is a perfect luxurious everyday piece or our new interpretation of Lorna Dotty with gorgeous, embroidered dots or Rozlyn reimagined in cornflower blue - there are so many I love this season.”

How do you ensure the brand stays relevant in an ever-changing world?

“I try not to listen to the noise too much. I focus on the DNA of the brand, its heritage and then adapt it to these current times. The brand has had to evolve several times over the last 23 years, and that’s what makes it so exciting to work on.”

What is it, in your opinion, that makes lingerie so special compared to average underwear?

“Lingerie can really transport you somewhere else and make you feel great about your body and build anticipation of exciting times. After having my first child, I got too comfortable and it started to affect my moods and my overall appearance. It really is the first thing you put on every day and can be mood changing in the most positive way. For me, lingerie is the new power suit! I know multiple women in powerful jobs who wear Agent Provocateur when they have important meetings to get through. It’s the individual’s under armour!”

3 key pieces no underwear drawer should be without?

“Suspender, stockings, and a bright fun pair of knickers!”

Lingerie is a big hit for Valentine’s Day. Any tips for someone shopping for their partner?

“My main tip for a man buying for his partner is to buy something she is going to like. Don’t just think of what you want her to wear. Then, if a woman is buying lingerie to wear for her partner to enjoy, as well as herself, my main tip is to buy something that you feel confident in and that makes you feel fantastic.”

What other occasions would suit a lingerie gift, in your opinion?

“I think gifting lingerie is not just for Christmas and Valentine’s Day, it should be an all-year-round gift to yourself or others. We found during lockdown many of our customers were buying bright, fun lingerie and posting pictures of themselves celebrating their bodies no matter what month it was.”

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