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Fashion
TRENDS TO WEAR THIS AUTUMN
Our Fashion Director, Shelly Corkery has rounded up the nine trends of the season, here’s the moods and the muses to channel right now. Indulge in 1980s and 1990s nostalgia, work those checks and pack a punch in skin-tight winter brights!
80s 90s Nostalgia
The Mood: One thing is for sure this season, there’s a new found love for 1980s and 1990s culture. Whether you identify with the waist-clinching buckle belts at Miu Miu, the skin-tight brights of Balenciaga or holographic hip-hop inspired looks at Balmain - it’s time to go back to the future.
The Catwalk Muses: 1980s club culture and Grace Jones style silhouettes are seen at Balenciaga, Alicia Silverstone’s cute “Clueless” checks at Versace and rock ballad goddess dresses at Balmain.
Executive Tailoring
The Mood: The mantra “we should all be feminists” continues to make waves on the catwalk with collections that empower the female form. There was eighties boldness at the Calvin Klein show which took place at the centre of commercial power – the American Stock Exchange, and at Dior - Maria Grazia Chiuri worked masculine suits that were nipped and defined in a strong yet feminine way.
The Catwalk Muses: Victoria Beckham drew on her own path to Girl Power by building a collection for the modern working woman that worked “a nice neat shoulder, a nipped-in waist, and lots of layering.”
Femme Elegance
The Mood: Valentino, Roksanda, Richard Quinn and Erdem were the trailblazers of autumn’s most extravagant mood which worked bold jewel toned dresses, oversized florals, classic separates in exquisite tweeds, jacquards and silks while highlighting a waspish, ladylike waist.
The Catwalk Muses: Fred Astaire’s starlet sister Adele Astaire (who just so happened to become the chatelaine of Lismore Castle in 1932) was the muse of Erdem’s collection. Her flapper-turned-regal style was immortalised at his show in the National Portrait Gallery London, working her penchant for pencil skirts, slip dresses and long line coats into a thoroughly modern lady of the manor look. We love.
CHECKS
The Mood: Checks crisscrossed the catwalk at Balenciaga, Prada, Dior and Gucci. Versatile in their application to a wide array of styles, colours and fabrics, from the punky windowpane squares at Dior to a bright 1980s check at Balenciaga.
The Catwalk Muses: Miss Moneypenny’s neat 1960s checks inspired Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga. Similarly quirky 1990s girls Chloé Sevigny and Winona Ryder’s moody sense of glamour were the starting point for Clare Waight Keller’s plaids at Givenchy.
BRIGHTS
The Mood: Don’t hold back - autumn is bright. Saturated shades were seen at Valentino in all their head-to-toe glory, glowing neon tulles emerged from a dark catwalk at Prada and robust oversized florals vied for everyone’s attention at Richard Quinn.
The Catwalk Muses: Richard Quinn’s collection was a tongue-in-cheek take on the Queen’s Balmoral look while at Peter Pilotto the muse was an Ossie Clark girl with psychedelic 1970s meets 1930s bright, opulent prints.
New Bespoke
The Mood: Autumn’s vision for tailoring? Reconstructed, draped and sculpted were the order of the day, finished off with asymmetric hems seen at The Row, Alexander McQueen, Off-White and Loewe.
The Catwalk Muses: Tailoring and military uniforms were the muse of the moment. At Alexander McQueen Sarah Burton was inspired by the British Royal Horse Guards, and at The Row the Olsens were also inspired by uniforms resulting in silhouettes that were concise and clean.
Winter Nomad
The Mood: This free-spirit boho aesthetic is back for autumn as championed by Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior. A romantic prairie mood was seen at Zimmermann and a wild west meets 1980s vibe at Isabel Marant. Think delicate dresses with asymmetric hemlines, folkloric patterns all wrapped up with the cosiest of knits.
The Catwalk Muses: Isabel Marant reworked her love of classic American western style but with a Dallas meets Paris edge this season using American starlets and pop stars as her muses. Meanwhile at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew from the style of Paris protestors of the late 1960s with their love of crochet, embroidery and patchwork — and filtered them through Dior’s luxury lens.
AUTUMNAL HUES
The Mood: Autumn’s changing colours and the glory of fallen leaves inspired designers who worked beautiful earthy tones of camel and brown against neutral palettes offering a nostalgic alternative to monochromatic schemes at Roksanda, Chloé, Versace and Delpozo.
The Catwalk Muses: The great outdoors and the beauty of autumn inspired Karl Lagerfeld who transformed the Grand Palais into a forest of fallen leaves for the Chanel Autumn Winter show. At Chloé 1970s heritage continued to be referenced by Natacha Ramsay-Levi who worked head-to-toe tones of brown, caramel and deep chocolate while referencing the look of 1970s actresses Stéphane Audran and Anjelica Huston.
Absolute Black
The Mood: Black is back! Head to toe looks were showcased throughout the collections as another nod to women’s empowerment. Anthony Vaccarello's full-on black collection for Saint Laurent wowed the crowds with Chloé, Loewe and Dolce & Gabbana following suit.
The Catwalk Muses: Dolce & Gabbana were as always inspired by the clerical black of the Catholic Church while Saint Laurent delved into the dark basement of 1980s club culture for a total blackout.