THE NEW LUXURY

THE KANYE EFFECT

The godfather of the street-meets-luxury scene Kanye famously criticized the industry in 2014 saying there weren't any black designers leading in the luxury designer space. Since then the fashion landscape seems to have significantly shifted partly as a result of West’s influence. Both Virgil Abloh and Heron Preston have benefited from the Kanye effect while his brand Yeezy continues to go from strength to strength.

VIRGIL AT VUITTON

After a triumphant Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2019 runway show at Paris Fashion Week, all eyes were on Virgil Abloh, and as if the catwalk show wasn't enough his emotional hug with Kanye (pictured) set Instagram alight, highlighting a key moment in their 14 year friendship and for the fashion industry in general.

The story of Abloh's ascent to the top of one of fashion's pre-eminent houses is also the story of the industry's collisions with celebrity, streetwear, and social media. The Chicago-born creative started out in architecture and became part of Kanye West's anti-establishment squad to endeavour to merge rap, contemporary art, and high fashion.

Rewind to to 2009 West and Abloh signed up to intern for famed fashion house Fendi. They were required to work regular nine-to-five work hours, get their supervisors coffee and, yes, do a lot of photocopying. Michael Burke, who was CEO of Fendi when the two interned there, let out a little tidbit of information when speaking to the New York Times saying: “I paid them $500 a month! I was really impressed with how they brought a whole new vibe to the studio and were disruptive in the best way.”

It's this learning from the inside out which has got Abloh to where he is today. He has the ability to speak to a younger generation and to turn a lifestyle into a fully-realised product. He did just that for Louis Vuitton this Spring Summer 2019 taking the signature bag silhouettes such as the large Keepall, the Runner and the Petit-Malle and re-imagining them. And re-imagining is what Virgil is all about, his rise to power through the ranks over the last number of years, with Kanye's influence, has made him the first black designer to hold such a high-profile position.

HERON PRESTON ON THE RISE

A protégé of Virgil Abloh, Matthew Williams and Kanye, Heron Preston is also a name on the rise. The 33 year-old Preston (yes Heron is his real name) has actually been on the scene for a number of years. While working as Nike's global digital producer, Preston was approached by Abloh, Matthew Williams and Justin Saunders for a collaborative project, Beentrill. Shortly after he had received Kanye West’s seal of approval and began working as his creative consultant, designing much of his tour merch. When Abloh started Off-White and Williams began Alyx, Preston followed suit. In 2017 he put out the first collection for his namesake company, which was a major success. Now he has his sights set on Prada, recently being quoted as saying: “A job at Prada would be amazing.”

THE GENIUS OF JONES

While Virgil took the reins at Louis Vuitton in 2018 Kim Jones moved to Dior. Jones seven-year career at Vuitton took a house predominantly known for its status-symbol accessories and made it a formidable player in the menswear space. Jones’ designs aligned perfectly with a fashion house that already appealed to the jet set.

No collection signified that more than Autumn Winter 2017, which saw an unprecedented collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Supreme. This new direction has laid the foundations for the Kanye squad to enter and it is the combined vision of all these key players that has set the tone for menswear now.

Now at Dior a new direction emerges from the genius of Jones and it's one to be watched. Kim says: “I like it when a brand is appreciated by lots of different people. I think that is the key to success nowadays, to be honest.” His front rows attract everyone from Kate Moss and David Beckham to A$AP Rocky and Ezra Miller and is a testament to just how successful he is.

This shift of focus to the street by established brands means it’s a very exciting moment right now, these visionaries are singlehandedly changing what we want, how we dress and what that means right now.

THE FUTURE OF FASHION

This shift of focus to the street by established brands means it’s a very exciting moment right now, these visionaries are singlehandedly changing what we want, how we dress and what that means right now.

DIOR MEN COMING TO STORE IN SEPTEMBER

STREETWEAR IS RISING

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