LEGENDS OF THE FALL

Fashion is an industry instinctively inclined to hyperbole, but Ian Bergin is a designer averse to making exaggerated claims for who he is, or what he does. A no-nonsense Northerner with a fine line in dry humour, he is the antithesis of the fashion stereotype; and, refreshingly, displays none of the trappings of ego that many with a mere fraction of his success many seem to view as part of the job description.

And make no mistake: while his name might not trip off the tongue, Bergin, in his role as the director of Barbour’s menswear and accessories, is one of the key players in the menswear sector.

Under Bergin’s guidance, business at the fifth-generation family company — whose clientele, in addition to the well-dressed country set, extends from rocks stars and royalty to trendy urbanites with a penchant for heritage labels — has boomed. While turnover broke the £200 million mark last year, it is under the Mancunian’s eye that Barbour has managed the near-impossible: to expand and evolve the brand, attracting a new, younger demographic without alienating its traditional customer.

Bergin says “We are a pragmatic company and tend to design for our market. “Our products need to exude our DNA, but they need to be relevant to a contemporary customer on fit, finish and detailing. We’re not making costume.”

Even the most fleeting browse through Barbour’s Autumn Winter 2018 collection would confirm that Bergin’s designs are anything but “costume,” the men’s collection epitomises his ability to fuse the desirable with the commercial; to showcase a perceptible evolution while remaining true to the brand’s roots.

And what of the customer? “We have such a wide consumer footprint,” says Bergin, “but they have the following requirements in common: a high-quality, robust and rugged construction, a paired-down and unfussy aesthetic, natural fibres and a pragmatic approach to pocket placement and collar construction for optimum fit, weather protection and practicality.”

As a designer, Bergin’s route into the fashion industry was more circuitous than most. After graduating with a degree in history and modern politics from the University of London, he spent a year working as an electrician. Soon after he swapped his overalls for a suit and tie, signing up with a firm of management accounts on London’s Strand.

“I hated it,” he grins. “I lasted half a day and thought: this is not for me!”

The accounting world’s loss was, within hours, to prove to be the fashion sector’s gain. Bergin recalls how during a short walk through nearby Covent Garden he saw that [menswear brand] Paul Smith was seeking staff for a new store. A fortuitous turn of events saw him meet with the company founder, Sir Paul Smith himself. Having made an instant impression, Bergin was offered a role with the company, where he was to remain for 13 years, “moving from managing the stores right through to becoming director of the jeans and accessory business.”

Bergin may have been a relative latecomer to the fashion industry, but it’s clear that he has truly found his niche. The success of Barbour’s menswear offering under his leadership isn’t hard to fathom: quality clothes that people want, at prices that, in designer terms and given their impeccable quality, are accessible, rather than aspirational. Now that’s a legend in the making.

Looking for a (coat) legend for your own wardrobe? Barbour has you covered…